Easter in Africa

Easter Sunday was precipitated by lots of excitement and much preparation, mostly by me, and only because I insisted on making a big deal about it. Because, well, it IS a big deal! Most people here, although they repeat often to anyone who will listen that they live in peace with their Christian neighbors, have no idea what Easter signifies. So anyway, I laid out my beautiful yellow dress Saturday night before I went to bed early (11pm) like a 6-year-old waiting for the Easter bunny. It was very strange and a bit lonely because my American roommate was spending the night at a hotel with friends and my host family made no effort whatsoever to make the event special for me.

At any rate I got up early on Easter, slipped on my dress, perfected my makeup and tiptoed out the door. I caught a cab and picked up my friend Cara in her neighborhood and together we headed downtown to the Cathedral. We had planned to get there early enough to find a spot for the 9am Mass but when we got there at 8, it was absolutely deserted! So we walked around in the old European quarter that houses the church and found a coffee shop. There I had the most delicious- REAL!- cup of coffee, the first time my mouth had tasted such a wonder since I got to Senegal. There were a bunch of Toubabs getting their regular Sunday croissants and coffee, and newspapers. By the time we finished the Cathedral was filling up so we snatched up seats in a middle pew.

The Bishop presided over the Mass, which was one of the most extraordinary I’ve ever experienced. First of all, the music was phenomenal; a traditional organ mixed with all kinds of drums- which I know sounds terrible, but is actually a unique and beautiful sound- and that indescribably African form of song which is slightly hoarse and shouted, but so utterly joyful. I loved it. Also, Easter Sunday is apparently so unusual that there were TV crews from every major station there filming the entire Mass. I think there was actually a government minister in the parish…

After the service Cara and I walked around the city for awhile enjoying the pleasant weather and working up our appetites until we came to consensus on what exactly we felt like eating. It was, after all, Easter so we were going to treat ourselves to whatever we wanted! We ended up at a place called Le Viking which had delicious French sandwiches and pizza! We both started out with drinks- wine for Cara, a martini for me- and didn’t have to wait long for our sandwiches either. We shopped while we ate because vendors were constantly passing by with goods, calling out to us. It was great when they came by with something I wanted, but it definitely got a bit annoying by the end of the meal. There was also a Nigerian soccer player with his Senegalese friend who sat near us and tried really hard to buy me a drink. I steadily refused (I know all you American girls are saying to yourselves “Why would she ever refuse a free drink?!”) because I knew what it would mean to him: I’m interested, I want his number, and probably to sleep with him as well. African men (sorry to generalize, but I’m gonna go there) are absolutely relentless and quite unaware of the difference between male-female interaction in African and US society.

The day ended quietly as no one was home when I got back because they were at a friends house celebrating Easter- what irony, I know. So I spent a quiet afternoon watching TV, reading, and napping. It was a little strange to be all alone on a day I usually celebrate with my entire family, but I can’t say that I didn’t appreciate the quiet time…